Breakfast until 11:30, unlimited meals from noon, tiffin and regional roasts into the evening. Prices include taxes.

Soft, steamed and hot off the tawa. Served until 11:30 am.

Fourteen thumb-sized idlis drowned in a shallot sambar, finished with ghee and a spoon of podi.

Two idlis and a crisp medu vada with sambar, coconut and tomato chutneys.
Rice and moong dal cooked soft with black pepper, cumin, cashew and plenty of ghee. Sambar and coconut chutney.
Three puffed pooris with a turmeric-yellow potato masala, the way it is made on Sunday mornings.
Semolina upma with mustard, curry leaf and cashew, paired with a small square of saffron kesari.
Light plates for any hour — the food Chennai runs on.

Crisp, lacy dosa brushed with ghee and our roasted lentil-chilli podi. Three chutneys and sambar.

The classic — a thin golden dosa folded over soft potato masala with curry leaf and mustard.
Thin, crackly semolina dosa with onion, green chilli, cumin and black pepper. Takes a little longer; worth it.

Twelve dimpled dumplings from fermented batter, with onion and chilli, pan-roasted in a cast-iron mould.
A thick, protein-rich lentil pancake with a bowl of avial — mixed vegetables in coconut and yoghurt.
Flaky parottas chopped on the griddle with egg, onion and a tomato salna. Loud, fast and deeply satisfying.
Rice, sambar, rasam and the day's poriyal. Unlimited, unhurried.

Unlimited rice with sambar, rasam, kootu, two poriyals, appalam, pickle, curd and a small sweet. Changes daily.

Seasonal vegetables in a dark, freshly ground masala of black stone flower, fennel and pepper. With rice or parotta.

Paneer in a coarse black-pepper and onion masala, closer to a roast than a gravy. Comes with ghee rice.

Seer fish simmered in a tangy tamarind and tomato gravy with fenugreek, best eaten the next day — so we make it a day ahead.

Short-grain seeraga samba rice with tender mutton, mint and a quiet heat. Served with brinjal curry and onion raita.
Cooling curd rice tempered with mustard and curry leaf, with pomegranate, grapes and a spoon of mango pickle.
Dishes with a postcode — Chettinad, Madurai, Kongu, Malabar.

Chicken on the bone roasted almost dry with crushed black pepper, curry leaf and small onions. From the Chettinad kitchens.

A soft dosa layered with egg and a thick mutton keema, folded and served with coconut chutney. A Madurai midnight classic.

Rice and toor dal cooked together with garlic, shallots and dried chilli, finished with coconut oil. Humble and complete.

Prawns in a coconut-milk gravy with kokum, green chilli and curry leaf, in the Kerala coastal style.

Slow-cooked mutton with sour sorrel leaves and plenty of red chilli, as served in Andhra homes.
Three soft, spongy set dosas with a sweeter, jaggery-tinged Udupi sambar and coconut chutney.

The Chennai original — boneless chicken marinated in curd, chilli and ginger, fried crisp with curry leaf.
Filter coffee pulled by the metre, and cooler things for Chennai afternoons.

A peaberry-chicory blend brewed in a brass filter, pulled with hot milk into a steel tumbler and davara.

Strong Nilgiri tea boiled with ginger, cardamom and milk.
Sarsaparilla root syrup with lime and soda — the old Madras cooler.
Thin, salted buttermilk with ginger, green chilli, curry leaf and coriander.
Served in the shell, with the malai scooped on the side.
Jaggery, coconut, ghee. Sweet, but not too sweet.

Chilled tender-coconut payasam with coconut milk, cardamom and a little jaggery. Served cold.
Rice flakes cooked slowly in coconut milk and dark jaggery, finished with ghee-fried cashew and coconut.

Two pieces, porous and melting, made the morning you order it.
Semolina cooked with ghee, saffron and fresh pineapple.
Sliced Banganapalli mango with lightly sweetened cream. Available while the season lasts.
Allergen information: dishes are prepared in a kitchen that handles nuts, dairy, gluten and shellfish. Tell us about an allergy when you order and we will guide you. Prices are illustrative — this is a fictional concept.
Breakfast seats go quickly on Sundays. Reserve a table, or walk in on a weekday.